Perfumers shift approach: from sweetness to contrasting scents
11 october 2026 в 13:50
The world of perfumery is witnessing a noticeable shift from sweet gourmand scents to more complex and unusual compositions. According to perfumer Alberto Morillas, sweet notes like vanilla and sugar continue to dominate store shelves; however, the trend is gradually moving towards deeper and more layered fragrances that incorporate a hint of bitterness.
Morillas notes that new fragrances will combine opposing ideas, such as sweet and smoky, green and floral, making them more memorable. Among the popular ingredients defining this new direction in perfumery are tomato leaves, damp earth, matcha, smoke, and sea salt. These notes create an atmosphere rather than just a scent, aiming to transport a person to a specific place, such as a forest after rain or a seaside.
One of the emerging trends is the use of sea salt, which is becoming increasingly fashionable. It pairs well with aquatic notes, musk, and woody accords, creating an interesting contrast. This indicates that sweet notes are not disappearing but are becoming more complex and multifaceted.
Thus, perfumery is moving towards uniqueness and self-expression, where the focus is on individuality rather than traditional notions of beauty. It is expected that in the coming years, the market will see fewer sweet fragrances and more compositions that reflect atmosphere and the surrounding world.
Morillas notes that new fragrances will combine opposing ideas, such as sweet and smoky, green and floral, making them more memorable. Among the popular ingredients defining this new direction in perfumery are tomato leaves, damp earth, matcha, smoke, and sea salt. These notes create an atmosphere rather than just a scent, aiming to transport a person to a specific place, such as a forest after rain or a seaside.
One of the emerging trends is the use of sea salt, which is becoming increasingly fashionable. It pairs well with aquatic notes, musk, and woody accords, creating an interesting contrast. This indicates that sweet notes are not disappearing but are becoming more complex and multifaceted.
Thus, perfumery is moving towards uniqueness and self-expression, where the focus is on individuality rather than traditional notions of beauty. It is expected that in the coming years, the market will see fewer sweet fragrances and more compositions that reflect atmosphere and the surrounding world.
© Artemenko Olga











